1. Put a large pan of salted water on to boil for the pasta. Cut the pancetta into 1/2 X 1/4 inch cubes. If the pancetta has its rind on, cut it off - and use a bigger piece of pancetta, as the amount I've specified is for prepared cubes - and put the rind in a pan with a film of oil and cook it gently to render down. 2. Then in a large pan that will fit the pasta later, cook the pancetta cubes in the oil until crispy but not crunchy. Chuck over them the white whine or vermouth and let it bubble away so that, after a few minutes, you have a small amount of salty winey syrup left. Take the pan off the heat. 3. In a bowl, beat together the eggs, Parmesan, cream and some pepper. Cook the pasta more or less according to the package instructions, but since you want it kept al dente start checking it at 2 minutes before the package says its done. Lower in a cup and remove approximately 1/2 cup of the pasta water before draining. Put the other pan, the one with the bacon cubes, on the heat and add the drained pasta, tossing well to coat with the syrupy pancetta. Add a little of the reserved pasta water to lubricate if necessary. Take the pan off the heat again and add the eggs and cheese mixture, swiftly tossing everything in to the mix. Grind over some more pepper and grate over the nutmeg, carry producing aloft, and dive inches. 4. Serves two hungry people, much too much in love to say goodnight. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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