The Evolution of Pecan Pie Recipes: From Custard to Corn Syrup

Welcome back to the kitchen, friends! In today's episode of Sunday morning old cookbook show, we're taking on a challenge making not one, but three pecan pie recipes.
Before we dive into the recipes, let's set some ground rules. Pecan pie, like many traditional recipes, didn't have a eureka moment. It evolved over time, with each version inspired by prior culinary traditions. Recipes were often shared orally or on scraps of paper, leading to gaps in our historical knowledge. So, my research is based on my collection of cookbooks and various databases, recognizing their limitations.
Now, about pecans botanically, they're not nuts, but we'll refer to them as nuts for culinary purposes. And pronunciation? Well, unless you speak one of the original North American native languages, there's no universally agreed-upon way to say "pecan."
Let's jump into the first pie a custard pie, a timeless classic found in cookbooks worldwide since the 1700s. The earliest American version, dubbed "pecan pie," appeared in Harper's Bazaar in 1886. It featured a rich custard with pecans, setting the stage for what was once called Texas pecan pie.
Forward to September 1922, and we encounter what I'll call the birthplace of the modern pecan pie. This recipe, focused solely on sugar, omitting milk. It marked a shift in pecan pie evolution and was likely inspired by earlier sugar pies found in various cultures.
The 1920s witness a boom in pecan availability due to improved agricultural practices. The once scarce pecans become more accessible, leading to a surge in pecan-centric recipes.
By 1925, corn syrup enters the scene, transforming pecan pies into the familiar sweet and gooey treat we know today. Companies like Karo Corn Syrup jump on the bandwagon, later claiming to have invented pecan pie, a claim debunked by historical evidence.
In 1929, we see the term "old-fashioned pecan pie," solidifying the recipe we recognize today. Over time, variations emerge, incorporating ingredients like vinegar, buttermilk, and spices.
Now, let's taste the results. We've got a custard pie, Myrtle's pecan pie, and a 1925 buttermilk-infused creation. Each has its unique twist, showcasing the diverse evolution of pecan pie recipes. While some may argue for their favorite, the truth is, every family has its pecan pie tradition, and they're all worth savoring.

If you have pre-1920 cookbooks with pecan pie recipes that break the custard mold, I'd love to see them. Let's fill in the gaps and complete the story of this beloved dessert. Thanks for joining me in this culinary journey, and I look forward to sharing more delicious stories with you soon.


1886 Harpers Bazaar Pecan Pie:
PECAN PIE
not only delicious, but is capable of being made "a real state pie," as an enthusiastic admirer said. The pecans must be very carefully hulled, and the meat thoroughly freed from any bark or husk. When ready, throw the nuts into boiling milk, and let them boil while you are preparing a rich custard. Have your pie plates lined with good pastry, and when the custard is ready, strain the milk from the nuts and add them to the custard. A mringue may be added, if liked, but very careful baking is necessary.

1922 Governor Of Texas Pecan Pie:
Pecan Pie.
By MRS. PAT NEFF
(Wife of the Governor of Texas).
Into the yolks of 4 eggs cream 1 cups of sugar.
Add 1 teaspoonful melted butter to 1 tablespoonful vinegar and 1 teaspoonful of vanilla.
Stir into this 1 cups of pecans and 1 cups of raisins.
Add last the beaten whites of 4 eggs.
Bake in a moderate oven. This makes two pies.

1925
Pecan Pie
Two cups pecans chopped fine.
One cup sugar.
One cup vinegar
One cup syrup
One-half cup buttermilk.
One-half cup flour.
Two eggs.
Butter size of an egg.
One teaspoon each of ground cloves and cinnamon
One teaspoon soda dissolved in the one half cup of water.
Mix sugar and flour together dry.
Melt butter, mix all together, pour in- uncooked crust.
Put strips pastry across top.
Bake in moderate oven 30 -40 minutes

0:00 Pie 1 1886 (Texas) Custard Pecan Pie
6:45 Pie 2 1922 Texas Governor Pecan Pie
15:25 Pie 3 Vinegar Buttermilk Pecan Pie
23:15 Tasting Pecan Pies

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